I also have a FSE power boost valve and have upped the pressure to 45psi. I've also removed the A/C belt and it's bit's that attach to the inlet manifold. If i fitted a B16/B18 inlet manifold aftermarket or stock would it be easier to convert to a newer aftermarket ECU as these seem to be more geared up for working with TPS and sensors from these engines? Just a thought as my stock PGMFI is still having problems idling properly!! And it's driving me nuts!! I can get ti to run properly with minimal hunting on idle at about 1000rpm, but then if i go for a quick blat down the road it then starts stubbling and stalling!!! I have removed the anti stall device as it's broken, and also have modded TB inside to make it more aerodynamic when the butterfly is fully open as well as knife edging the outside of the TB mouth, also have a 3" CAI pipe with a large metal cone filter where the batter is, this goes to a reduction silicon pipe from 76mm to 64mm to the TB. I was kinda looking for 1/4 mile times or maybe dyno runs. Better breating means you also got to the exhaust out of the engine fast. Once I get the car dyno tuned, we'll see if it is really worth it. I'm very conservative when it comes into HP numbers. So, I'm confident I will get at least 10 hp. You keep the same plenum and runner shape. and that was just with a stock ported intake. A ported B20A5 intake manifold, mated with a TB spacer and a 60mm TB gave an increase of 24 hp on the dyno. Some experiences were made with a B20A5 which is similar to the B20A construction wise. On a rolling start in 1st gear, the tires lose traction as soon as my IAB opens until I reach the rev limit (7200). I don't know why did Honda install those intakes. The OEM intake is fine with a Stock A20A but like I said a few times, that intake just chokes my B20A. The IAB also helps top end power butthe small plenum isn't up to par with a performance engine. Especially for the 88-89 model since it has IAB. It was designes to give the largest amount of low end torque.
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